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Nutritious Island Cuisine |
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MARIANTHI MILONA THE VOLCANIC rock formation of Santorini conserves rainwater needed for vegetation growth over long periods. Thus, since Classical times, Greece's best known volcanic island has played a part in the history of cultivating pulses, especially yellow lentils. For pulses to develop properly, it is important that they get sufficient water, particularly after flowering in spring so as to prevent the setting pods from drying out. That is why people eagerly await the spring rains. If they do not come, or are only slight, the entire crop can be destroyed. Chickpeas - or garbanzo beans (Cicer arietinum) - lentils (Lens culinaris), peas (Pisum sativum) and beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) all belong to the legume family (Leguminosae), and most have whitish or purple flowers. The Mediterranean region |
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| is the main area where they are grown in Europe. Indeed, pulses are regarded as a staple food throughout Greece, and many Greeks' favourite meals are often made from them. However, the inhabitants of the Greek islands must have developed a special taste - and hence suitable recipes - for them because on their arid fields it was hard to grow anything else at the best of times, and quite impossible to do so during periods of repression and poverty. In some ways, not much has changed. On the Cyclades islands, chickpeas, beans, fava, lentils and peas are sown after the first rain showers, from October to December. On the poor, rocky and dry soil, the plants have to make do with nothing more than rainwater. So, there can never be a real glut of pulses in Greece. Chickpeas are often used in soup dishes during the winter. Combined with plenty of olive oil and fresh tomatoes, they make a hearty, nutritious meal that is enjoyed throughout Greece. On the islands, where opportunities for agriculture have always been limited, people have become very inventive when preparing the few staple foods available. That is why you can discover dishes on the islands that are not common on the mainland, such as chickpea puddings and vegetarian rissoles. Yellow lentils Soft, sandy soils rich in potassium, iron and magnesium, combined with the short and heavy rainfall typical of the Cyclades, provide perfect growing conditions for the yellow lentil. Among the pulses, yellow lentils - forerunners of the modern cultivars that were used as long ago as 10000BC in Syria - occupy a special place in Greece because there is evidence that they were cultivated on Santorini around 2000BC. They have a sweeter flavour than other lentils, and you can make a simple lentil puree into a culinary delight. In the last several years, their increasing popularity has led to increased demand outstripping supply. As a result, yellow lentils have almost become a delicacy, available only from inland markets or purchased during a visit to Santorini. Kali orexi! Fava Santorinis (Yellow lentil puree) Ingredients 1 scant cup/200ml Greek extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2½ cups/500g dried yellow lentils 3 bay leaves 1 tsp capers 1 onion, cut into rings 10 cherry tomatoes 1 tsp dried oregano Juice of 1 lemon Salt Freshly ground black pepper Method Heat a scant ½ cup/100ml olive oil in a pan and soften the finely chopped onion in it. Add 4 cups/1 litre water, bring to a boil and add the lentils. Remove any foam as it appears. When the water has been fully absorbed, the lentils should be mushy in texture. Season with salt and pepper, and quickly process with a handheld blender. Leave the puree in a cool place to set. Before serving, stir in lemon juice to taste and the remaining olive oil. Transfer to a large plate, garnish with the capers, onion rings and cherry tomatoes, and sprinkle with the oregano. Serve cold. Revithokeftedes (Chickpea rissoles) Ingredients 23/4 cups/500g dried chickpeas 1 onion, finely chopped 1 clove of garlic, crushed 3 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 sprig mint, finely chopped 1 tbsp tomato paste 1 tsp cinnamon All-purpose flour Olive oil for frying Salt Freshly ground black pepper Method Soak the chickpeas overnight. The next day, wash them well and leave to drain. Grind them into a paste with a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl. Add the onion, garlic, parsley and mint, and combine thoroughly. Stir a little water into the tomato paste and add to the chickpea mixture, together with the cinnamon. Season with salt and pepper and knead into a dough, adding a little flour if it has become too moist. Heat the olive oil in a deep frying pan. Shape the mixture into small, flat rissoles, and deep fry in the hot olive oil until they're golden brown. Chickpea rissoles are a delicacy that can be served either warm or cold with a fresh salad as an appetiser. Revithia sto fourno (Oven-baked chickpeas) Ingredients 6 scant cups/1kg dried chickpeas 2 onions, finely chopped Juice of 1 lemon 1½ cups/350ml Greek extra virgin olive oil 3-4 bay leaves All-purpose flour Salt Freshly ground black pepper Method Soak the chickpeas overnight. The next day, pour out the water, rinse and leave to drain thoroughly. Put the chickpeas in an earthenware casserole dish with a tight-fitting lid and combine with the onions, lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, and place the bay leaves on top. Combine the flour with a little water to make a thick paste. Place the lid on the casserole dish and seal all around with the flour-and-water paste. Place the casserole in the oven and leave to cook overnight at a very low temperature. Serve in the casserole dish garnished with a couple of lemon wedges. *Marianthi Milona is the author of the book Culinaria Greece |
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(Posting Date 23 January 2009) HCS readers can view other excellent articles by this writer in the News & Issues and other sections of our extensive, permanent archives at the URL http://www.helleniccomserve.com./contents.html
All articles of Athens News appearing on HCS have been reprinted with permission. |
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